Chasing Water Puppets
One of our most memorable events in Hanoi was our attending a performance of the water puppets at the Thang Long Theatre. It was simply an amazing combination of theatre, staging, showmanship and hard work. Started over a thousand years ago by rice farmers during the slow winter season, water puppetry consists of manipulating wooden puppets in a pool of water by submerged rods and strings operated by puppeteers standing in thigh-deep water behind a screen at the edge of the pool. The pool is about 20ft by 20ft, and the puppets weigh as much as 35 pounds. The puppets are carved out of fig wood and are brillantly painted. Really works of art in themselves. We were totally captivated, and decided that we would go on a search to find out where and how these puppets were made.
After much questioning of the staff at the Thang Long, and farmers along the route we arrived at this small village surrounded by rice patties somewhere about an hour south of Hanoi.
After being told by our driver what we were looking for, the village kids led us through the village...
To a small compound like this.
Inside was the objective - a busy family carving the fig puppets.
Everybody works.
They were exceptionally hospitable to us, inviting us in for tea, fun conversation, and much laughter. But, we discovered that this village only carved the puppets, and they were painted and finished at another village back near Hanoi. In this photo the host is writing the address for our next stop in our exploration.
Before leaving the village, we teach the kids high fives. Fast learners...
The address brought us to the final stop for puppets before they go into the water. In this small townhouse the entire extended family works on puppets that are mostly carved elsewhere and delivered here for painting and assembly.
This is a complicated ox and plow puppet. Behind is a painted soldier still waiting for his arms. We were delighted to purchase several finished puppets to take home with us. Saying goodbye to this friendly and happy group was great fun.
Here in the study of our Port Ludlow home are the proofs of our fun day. The soldier now has arms. The princess is ready for the magic prince to arrive. The fish was added a year or so later by Edith and Karl who captured it while attending a performance at the Thang Long Theatre when it broke loose from its string controls and ended up in their laps.